Comme des Garçons is a name that resonates deeply within the world of high fashion. Known for its avant-garde designs, boundary-pushing concepts, and unique aesthetics, the Japanese fashion house has carved out a niche in the global fashion scene. Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, Comme des Garçons has not only redefined what fashion can be but has also influenced countless designers and fashion lovers alike.
In this article, we explore the history, design philosophy, and impact of Comme des Garçons, one of the most iconic fashion brands of our time.
The Origins of Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo: The Visionary Behind the Brand
The story of Comme des Garçons begins with its founder, Rei Kawakubo, a self-taught designer with a bold vision. Born in Tokyo, Kawakubo had no formal training in fashion design, which allowed her to break free from traditional conventions. She founded Comme des Garçons in 1969, with the brand’s name translating to “like boys” in French, reflecting its androgynous and unconventional approach to fashion.
The Early Years and International Recognition
The brand first gained significant attention in Japan during the 1970s, before making its international debut in Paris in 1981. Kawakubo’s debut at Paris Fashion Week shocked the fashion world with its dark, deconstructed clothing that challenged the norms of beauty and design. The brand’s radical departure from conventional fashion quickly earned it a cult following.
Comme des Garçons’ Design Philosophy
Defying Norms and Breaking Boundaries
From the outset, Comme des Garçons has been synonymous with experimentation and rebellion against the status quo. The brand’s designs often feature asymmetry, deconstruction, and unconventional silhouettes, which have become hallmarks of its aesthetic. Rei Kawakubo is known for her willingness to challenge traditional ideas of beauty, often creating pieces that are intentionally “ugly” or unsettling.
Androgyny and Deconstruction
A key aspect of Comme des Garçons’ approach is androgyny. Kawakubo has always pushed against the gendered boundaries of fashion, creating clothing that is often gender-neutral. Additionally, deconstruction plays a major role in the brand’s designs, with garments that appear unfinished or that expose their inner workings, such as raw edges, exposed seams, or asymmetrical cuts.
Fashion as Art
For Comme des Garçons, fashion is not merely about clothing but is also a form of art. Rei Kawakubo frequently explores themes such as imperfection, identity, and nonconformity in her collections. Each runway show is treated as an artistic performance, often accompanied by abstract set designs and thought-provoking concepts. This has made Comme des Garçons one of the most intellectual and concept-driven brands in the industry.
Notable Comme des Garçons Collections
The 1997 “Lumps and Bumps” Collection
One of the most famous Comme des Garçons collections is the 1997 Spring/Summer line, often referred to as the “Lumps and Bumps” collection. In this collection, Kawakubo added exaggerated padding to her garments, creating bulbous, distorted silhouettes that challenged conventional ideas of the human form. The collection was polarizing but cemented the brand’s reputation as a true avant-garde force in fashion.
The “Broken Bride” Collection
The 2015 Fall/Winter collection, sometimes called the “Broken Bride,” was another groundbreaking show. The collection featured dresses that were intentionally unfinished, with torn fabrics and distressed designs. The theme of imperfection and incompleteness was a powerful commentary on beauty standards and societal expectations.
Play Comme des Garçons: A Playful Sub-Brand
In contrast to the high-concept mainline collections, Play Comme des Garçons is a more approachable, playful sub-brand that has gained mass popularity. Recognizable by its iconic heart-with-eyes logo, designed by Polish artist Filip Pagowski, Play focuses on streetwear essentials like T-shirts, hoodies, and sneakers. The brand has collaborated with many mainstream names, including Converse, making it a favorite among younger consumers.
Comme des Garçons Collaborations
Collaborations with Nike and Converse
Comme des Garçons has collaborated with major global brands, bringing its avant-garde aesthetic to a broader audience. One of its most famous collaborations is with Nike, where the brand has reimagined classic sneakers like the Air Force 1 and the Dunk High. Additionally, the collaboration with Converse on the Chuck Taylor series has become a staple in streetwear culture, with the heart logo being instantly recognizable.
Louis Vuitton and Supreme Collaborations
Comme des Garçons has also collaborated with high-end luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton, where Kawakubo’s deconstructive approach merged with LV’s classic elegance. In 2017, the brand collaborated with Supreme, resulting in one of the most sought-after streetwear collections of the decade. These collaborations have allowed Comme des Garçons to blend high fashion with streetwear culture, appealing to a diverse fan base.
Comme des Garçons’ Influence on Fashion
Redefining Beauty Standards
Comme des Garçons has played a pivotal role in redefining beauty standards within the fashion industry. Kawakubo’s rejection of traditional, Western-centric ideas of beauty has encouraged other designers to embrace diversity and imperfection in their work. The brand’s anti-fashion approach, which challenges the very idea of what clothing should be, has influenced countless other avant-garde designers.
Inspiring Future Generations
Many contemporary designers cite Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons as major influences on their work. Designers like Rick Owens, Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, and Jonathan Anderson of Loewe have all drawn inspiration from Kawakubo’s boundary-pushing designs and conceptual approach to fashion.
Where to Buy Comme des Garçons
Flagship Stores and Online Retailers
Comme des Garçons has flagship stores in major cities such as Tokyo, Paris, and New York, where fans can find the brand’s full range of collections. Additionally, many luxury retailers like Ssense, Farfetch, and Dover Street Market offer Comme des Garçons pieces online. For those seeking more affordable options, Play Comme des Garçons is widely available and often found in popular streetwear stores.
Resale Market for Limited Editions
Comme des Garçons’ more exclusive items, such as runway pieces or limited collaborations, are often available through resale platforms like Grailed or StockX. These platforms give fashion enthusiasts the opportunity to own rare and iconic pieces from the brand’s past collections.
The Future of Comme des Garçons
Kawakubo’s Legacy and Future Direction
As Rei Kawakubo continues to push the boundaries of fashion, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of the industry. Although Kawakubo is now in her 80s, her vision and creativity show no signs of slowing down. The future of Comme des Garçons will likely continue to blend high-concept designs with wearable art, challenging the next generation of designers to think beyond the conventional.
